WOOD FENCES, GATES, ARBORS, OUTDOOR KITCHENS AND WOOD BRIDGES. The first thing to go wrong with a new fence is almost always the gate. Soon the gate starts to sag or tilt out of alignment with the post on the latch side. In order to resolve those problems I bury all my posts 2 1/2' to 3' deep set in concrete. (mother nature can shrug her shoulders and move anything but the added depth reduces the tilt) Secondly, I build all my gates in a half lap fashion. This makes a ridgid frame on which to place the cedar pickets. Thirdly, I use a superior hinge that is much stronger, cost the same as and is tighter than conventional gate hinges used by most every fence company. Most importantly I do all the work myself with helpers in order to maintain the quality of the project. I dont have sub fence crews who get paid by the foot and dont really care too much about the extra things needed in order to make a quality fence.
Fences can look much better than just posts and pickets. By adding on just a little trim a fence can go from plain jane to beautiful. On all my fences I automatically add two trim pieces along the top, a 1x4 with a 1x2 on top of it. This really finishes off the fence for a better look. The 1x4s and 1x2s come from left over pickets used on the fence and take just a little time to apply to fence. I can also create a collumn look and add arched or stacked horizontal pieces between the collumns.
6' tall Fortress Fence and Gate 3/14
4' Tall fence with cattle panels. Double Drive GatesPedestrian Gate. Latch post scribed to conform to stone.
Horizontal fence and gate. The center frame piece is made with dove tails for an added touch.
Standard board on board cedar fence with 2x8" cap board and trim
This fence, 6' tall in a board on board fashion with the trim pieces on top, has an extra wide gate to allow larger lawn mowers to pass. The gate frame is with the ship lapped joints plus braces at each corner for added strength.
Two pictures at bottom are of a screened in porch with opaque stained cedar.